Regular model works good on cars (12v) but it will brake on trucks (24v ) The model marked as "PRO" ,dark blue PCB, has NEVER broke down on me, and I sold a lot of them ! tested on trucks and buses, ask your chinese seller to show you photos of inside electronics, if its like that, buy it. Here you can see difference between low cost and high quality mb star. No hole in case, but not a big deal, but will definatly be looking at installing sink like strda50es,Īt the end of the day was just pleased to see that it works well on 12V The simplified versions often do not have this hole for the screw at all. Out of interest, I assume your C3 case already has a hole next to the green led? This is for the screw that secures the heat sink to the case. You would not have to work a lot if you retooled the I-shaped sink to an U-shaped one, attached to the case. The U-shaped part is attached to the case, making the whole big C3 case a heat sink with a lot of surface to dissipate heat. The problem with this I-shaped heat sink is less from the thickness but more because of the limited surface area. I've seen tools with the "proper heat sink" but one of the TO220 parts (I think this was a transistor actually, if not, then an ordinary regulator) floating because they did not care to attach it to the heat sink when it needs insulation. At least it has all TO220 parts attached to the heat sink, also the one that needs insulation.
Very close look at the heat sink of mine and you'll notice its very scruffy and quite thin, Yes i noticed the heat sink on strada50es Mux. Mind you, I was never going to test the mux on a 24V car.Ĭurrently I drive a w211 and I will be changing it shortly (hopefully) to a w212- Wife is also geting an A160. (unless you wil make some changes too).please consider this as a friendly advice. If it is working good now on 12 v just use it for this type of cars and forget about 24 v. please don't ever think about to test your mux on a 24 V car not even for a minute or so. I would like to add on more advice this time for our friend George (gmatj).dear G. Try now not to push further your tests on 24 v because probably soon that diode or voltage regulator will fail and you will destroy other expensive components on PCB. Probably all you will need is larger heatsinks on the voltage regulators and maybe some capacitors changed on board (easy job).
If it worked for a minute on 24 v car then it is a good news and probably you will be able to test other cars in the future with the same 24 v supply. If you will attach a picture in the future please mark that diode on the PCB and check please, if you still be able now to do it after it get "browny" any numbers on that. Just my opinion here before you will post some pictures.įirst of all I would like to ask you what "diode" changed the color ? Are you sure it is a diode or a voltage regulator ? Surely, it's a half-original Multiplexer :) Was little sad, that it probably won't work on 12V cars, but tested everything - works perfect. Looks like it just doesn't handle the 24V voltage. Then tested on other Actros - the same thing after few minutes. The diode on the Multiplexer started to light from brighter to very dark, then just got darker, few clicks inside while trying to access other modules, and no connection anymore. I was brave to test DAS/Xentry Multiplexer on 24V (Actros).įirst minutes: connected to all main controllers, entered engine, checked DTC, then entering live data, and an error (no connection with Multiplexer to the car or smth.like that).
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